A Trip to Maduri and Kodaikanal...
Madurai - a town of great sweetness, of art and grance, of divinity. This is the place where the goodess Meenakshi, or Parvati in this avatar, lived and breathed and ruled, as the royal Pandya princess thousands of years ago. This is the place where Lord Shiva, as Sundereshwar, married the royal Meenakshi, in a celestial wedding on earth, witnessedny the loyal citizens of the Pandya Kingdom. The bustling town is dominated by the 4 towers of the temple, a visit to the temple often being the only goal of the visitor. One can go on to Alagarkil, an ancient Vishnu temple, and the tourist destinations of Thekkady and Munnar, easily accessed by road. Town devoted to the handloom industry, from beach towel to the cotton sungandi sari, it appearss that Madurai seldom sleeps. Cinema halls abound, and eating is a fetish. Hot 'masala milk' stalls keep time with the late show. Food in Madurai is a passion, made passionately, and eaten with true relish. Fiery South Indian non vegetarian dishes can be had everywhere, as also very simple homely vegetarian meals. The taj and Pandyamoffer 5 star cuisine, while 'Supreme' and 'Aarthy' serve great vegetarian food. The month of April is of special significance in Madurai when the celestial wedding is enacted by the temple every year. Huge milling crowds ensure the success of the festivals, and the whole town is involved in the proceeding. Madurai is also famous for the jasmine flower - the place and the 'malli' are inseprable images, wrapped in the heavenly fragrance of the blossom. The flowers are sold everywhere, tied in long strings. The 'malli' fields abound in silkvaripatti, about 10 miles out of town on the Kodaikanal road. All along the plains of the Vaigai river, on the drive to Kodai, one can see flowers - crossandra, marigold, gomphrena, as well as the jasmine. Small roadside temples with huge martial figures, stand open to the sky. These ancient figures are called 'Ayyanaars' - the guardian diities of the village. Armed with whips and swords, they spell terror to the wrongdoer. The entire uphill journey from Madurai to Kodaikanal takes about 3 hours, a most panoromic journey. Small villages cling to the hillside, streaked with tiny seasonal waterfalls and gushing streams. The silver Cascade is the largest, a picnic spot, and a definite halting point enroute. The air gets cooler and has the distinct hilly aroma of eucalyptus and mountain flowers. Along comes the village of Vatlagundu, and the pride and produce of the region makes a superb display along the roadside. 'Bumblimass'-a huge citrus, pears, pineapples, guavas, plums, mangosteens, oranges and the unique red banana - the city dweller is bound to find it all a bit unreal, surrounded by such bountry. A little friendly bargaining and the car beings to resemble a fruit basket.
Climbing further up, we come to Perumamalai, again tempting halt, just 12 kms away from Kodaikanal. Smaller and not as commercialised as Ooty, Kodaikanal is dominated by the famous Kodai Lake. Steep roads climb up and about the lake, leading to eateries, markets and shops. One must see the Pillar Rocks ar the end of a long road where it is easy to get stuck in traffic. Walking along coaker's Walk is a lovely experience - a narrow lane cut into the hillside, falling away into a deep valley on the left. Bungalows with picture-perfect gardens and names reminiscent of england, border the Walk. Floating mists swirl dangerously across one's vision on the long walk. Bryant's Park has lots of apples tree and rhododendrons. Climbing up and down the planted slopes is energising, and one can buy plants to take back home. Tibetan swaters and shawls abound in the market lanes around the lake as also Tibetan food. North and south Indian food is easily available. The Econut is a lovely shop, owned by dedicated couple who concentrate on natural products. fantastic muesli, jams, pickles, fresh baked variety breads, cakes, muffins, chocolates and welcome cups of hor tea or coffee and sandwiches, make this a grand place to relax after a steep walk, and watch life in the steep street below.
Pure mountain honey, medicinal oils, lemon grass, balms and rubs, pure soaps-Econut has it all, bringing Kodai back to your home. Plenty of hotels and lodges offer rooms for stay with classy places like the Carlton giving packages deals. The Holiday Home is one of the first hotels here, really beautiful with its sprawling grounds, little cottages and climbing roses. The sterling Lake View resort is always full and also offers cooking facilities in the room. boating in the lake is a favourite pastime. Pony riding and cycling are good options too - with biking actually being the only means of transport here, other than expensive hire cars. Trekking holidays are now getting popular, with walks into the 'sholas', the wet forests on the hills. These take one far from the madding crowds, into a land of greenery and quiet, of much needed solitude. The Kidai Sunday market is a unique experience, starting early in the day. Roads are blocked to traffic around the place andf packhorses, donkeys and humans are all laden with fresh produce from the local farms. Bargaining is deafening, and there is a pulsating life to it all. A visit to the Kurinji Andavar temple is a must if a good view of the distant Palani hills can be had. The slopes of Kodai are clothed in the blue Kurinji flower once in 12 years and at other times by the vigorous heavenly blue Impomea.
The weather is invariably chill and can get very cold after a shower, even in summer. In winter, the lakeside is deserted by 6 pm. The scent of fallen eucalyptus leaves, roses, magnolias, damp mists and fine rain - its a world away from the humdrum city existence. Driving along in a leisurely way, drinking in the countryside is the best way to make this trip memorable. And a local artist's sketch of you by the lake, is a perfect keepsake of trip.
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