Delicate Grandeur

Painstakingly and delicately done by hand, creations in zardozi work are timeless, unbound by the shackles of trends. Always in vogue, Zardosi work has been around for as long as our gods and godessess have. Predominantly done in Uttar Pradesh, mainly in Agra, Zardozi quickly appealed to the tastes of the Moghul kings and queens who used it to embellish their garments. The art of zardozi embroidary has been prefered over the years. The raw material comes in long curled strips of shiny gold wire and is sold by weight.

It has to be cut to size depending in the design and is then attached to the fabric.

A derivative from the word, Zari, the original zardozi was made from an alloy of silver and gold. The wire that comes our of the furnace, although containing a lot of silver in it, glittered like gold. This flattened wire was then twisted around silk threads to form the spring like zardozi. Heavy and grand to look at, garments made with zardozi embroidary can weigh a lot in terms of pounds and kilos. Probably one of the reasons why brides in North India wear zardozi embellished outfits is to keep their dupatta-covered heads bent demurely during the wedding caremony. 'They have little choice, the duppatta itself is so heavy,' laughs an eighty year old Punjabi grandmother who has seen zardozi work its magic on young defiant heads. 'An Indian bride looks so much better when she is shy,' the lady adds for good measure. Today, of course, like everything else, zardozi too has its imitations being sold in the market mat a much cheaper cost, made out of copper and brass wires plated with gold. The latest additions are coloured zardozi with a plastic base. Far more pocketfriendly, this new zardozi lasts longer and is lighter to wear.

While zardozi is used a lot on garments, it is extensively done on jewellery cases, wall hangings and upholstery as well. In fact, a few European and American designers have set up workshops in India Where they are specializing in zardozi work on cushion covers, table linen and ever curtains. The designs vary, though, but the concept is Indian.

Watching the work in progress is an education in itself. Mounted on a adda or a wooden frame, the fabric is pulled taut and tied so that it does not shift. The frame itself is quite large, and can comfortably accommodate five to seven work-men(yes, zardozi is mostly done by men) who fill in the pre-traced designs. An intricate job could take them up to a week to complete. A crochet like hook fixed to a wooden stick called the ari can be used. This cab be done at great speed, as it enables the work-man to pass the threads both above and below the fabric. The ari has its disadvantages, though. One tug at a loose thread can spell disaster to the entire design as it can unravel in a matter of minuites. The needle and thread method, though far more dependable, is very time and labour consuming, hence far more expensive.

All kinds of combinations are used to add to the grandeur of zardozi. A little bit of thread work here or a few sequins or semi precious stones added there make the outfit appealing, giving it that unique exclusivity every bride desires.