Inco The Desert Jodhpur To Phalodi

Rajasthan has long captured the fascinated imaginations of many. It is also true that generally this fascination extends only to Jaipur, Udaipur- and the desert towns of Jaisalmer and Bikaner. The city of Jodhpur and beyond comprise the desert region of the state, an area and city less preferred to the more popular destinations. Fact is the delights of this region are many, waiting to be explored.

Jodhpur is alovely old city, referred to as the 'blue city', due to its blue washed buildings, signifying brahmin homes. The city's image is that of an overpowering Mehrangarh Fort, atop a small hill, with a grandiose view. Reputed to be one of the best forts in the state, its stately ramparts contain a museum within as well as collections of elephant carriage and planquins. The nearby white marble Jaswant Thada too can be admired for its pristine artistry. A picnic lunch of the local cuisine can be hadinside the fort, at the small eatery.

Jodhpur is a city that awakes early and sleeps late-very, very late! The streets around the Clock Tower and Sadr Bazar are filled with thousands of shops, small temples between old jharokaed homes, sherbet stalls and cloth stores with colourful displays of banhhini material flapping in the breeze, attracting passers-by. the small airport leads quickly into town along the Ajit Bhawan Road - a paradise for antique lovers, filled with shops large to small, selling old furniture, doors and windows, wooden Rajasthani dolls, chairs, etc. The Sadr market area is famed for its silversmiths, and typical local jewellery can be cheaply bought. But the Nai sadak - now this is the heart of the city. Shutting at 11 p.m. and opening at 9 a.m. every is the National.

Handloom Corporation, spread out over 2 adjacent buildings, and many floors and myriads of colours of bandhini material. Also stocking handicrafts, the store is a must on the list of every tourist. Next door to it is the Janatha Sweet Home-a huge snacks store selling all manner of the famed namkeen, generously mixed with almonds and cashews, samosas, kachoris, a plethora of sweets, and ice cream. People are known to shop in four figures here, for take-away packs to distant homes.

A visit Jodhpur can be compleated by looking around the fabulous Umaid Bhawan Place Hotel. An Attached museum gives glimpses of the resident royal family's bygone splendour. The hotel also arranges luxurious desert camps. The exploration of Jodhpur is incomplete without advancing into the desert, towards Osiyan and Phalodi.

Osiyan is 65 kms from Jodhpur, again replete with blue washed homes. A large Jain population has existed here from prior to the 8th century, leading to the town's collection of spectacular sandstone temples. The old derelict ones along the roadside simply beckon with their grace, while the well maintained Mahavira and Sachiyamata temples leave one spellbound with their superb sculptures. With the sand dunes never far away, Osiyan provides tented stays on the dunes, and camel rides across the desert. The Mahavira Temple can be approached for stay, food and guidance.

About 70 kms from Osiyan lies the town of Phalodi, a happy little discovery of an ancient desert town. Surrounded by the Thar, Phalodi is equidistant from the famed cities of Bikaner and Jaisalmer, making it an ideal place to visit. The town is filled with really grand red and white sandstone havelis, each a work of art. Old Jain and Hindu temples too charm the visitor, marvels of an ancient sculpted work, done in a remote place. The 250 year old haveli of Mohan Chand Dhana, a Chennai based entrepreneur, has been tastefully converted into a luxury heritage hotel, called the Lal Nivas. A descendant of Seth Sarangdas, once dewan to the Maharaja of Jaisalmer, M C. Dadha, has made the Lal Niwas an oasis io luxury in the small town. International cuisine, as also traditional Rajasthani fare, is served here, making the place ideal for stay. The hotel organises guided desert safaris, camel rides and romantic tent stays.

Phalodi town is home to the 'jooti' and these fine embroidered shoes can be ordered or brought ready made, for a every fair price. Glass bangles galore, and the local women put out stall every day regardless of the heat, selling ornaments and clothes. A small bead jeweller's shop quickly puts together Bishnoi-style necklaces complete with enormous pendants. An early morning trip into the desert is perfect, so cool and pleasant. The sight of the first Bishnoi woman leading a camel is so thrilling, really transporting one to the sands, so strange for one from a far-off coastal city. These woman are always splendidly attired, in colourful ghagras usually red, a nylon odhni, along blouse and oodless of silver and beaded ornaments. The unmarried girls reveal their faces, but the married ones are modestly covered from head to toe, the camel too is grandly dressed, with embroidered cloth throw over its dignified hump. The Bishnoi men take it easy, wrapped in mild opium, and immersed in card games through the day.

The temple of Jambaji, a few kms from Phalodi, is a simply lovely place, on the banks of a small, very blue lake full of backish water. Its a perfect picnic spot, to bathe and relax and have a leisurely picnic spread. The temple of Ramdevra too is popular place, locally much revered. The town of Kichan, 4 kms, from phalodi, is another desert surprise, filled with desolate sandstones havelis, with the wealthy owners living away, making a prosperous livelihood. Kichan is justly famous as a bird sanctuary, with its small seasonal water body attracting thousands of migratory cranes from distant Africa of Mongolia.

One drives into Phalodi, often pursued bu a sandstrom in summer, with rains beginning in July. The region thus begins its holiday season-a perfect opportunity to explore, and enjoy, a lovely new ploace, seemingly having exicted forever.

Getting there:

Jodhpur can be reached by air(direct flight from Mumbai), rail(direct trains from Mumbai or Ahmedabad) and road. Phalodi-is a little over 2 hours from Jodhpur by road. Can be reached by train from Jaiselmer and Udaipur.