Honeymoon in Malabar

The Malabar coast-a tiny piece of land along India's south west coast full of history and romance. Its beauty is bounteous, its heritage so ancient that a lifetime would not suffice to explore and enjoy it to the full. With green palm fringed seas and placid backwaters, hemmed by the same palms, the Venice of the east-Kochi(Cochin) and its twin town, Ernakulam, combines nature's bountry with all the hustle and bustle of a wealthy city. Situated on the mainland, Ernakulam is seperated from Kochi by the sea. The latter is positioned on the islands of willingdon. Honeymoon couple and other tourists could start by exploring and experiencing Ernakulam. Now much like any other thriving city, the main street-M.G. Road boasts of the finest shops rivalling those of Mumbai. Huge malls like Jayalakshmi Saris, Alappatt Jewellers and Alukkas loom over small ayurveda outles and handicraft shops. There is perennial whiff of frying cocunut oil-providing a constant supply of banana chips, mingling with the salty sea air. Imported fripperies abound along Marine Drive, the local beach hangout. Eating here is easy-for vegetarian food one can head for Dwaraka on M.G. Road which serves fine, hot food at all times, and is also a comfortable place to stay, For luxury, head straight to the Taj Residency, with its grand view of the sea, fine sea food and international cuisine. A sense of bygone grandeur is mere 15 kms away in Tripunithara, the royal palace of the erstwhile Kochi kings. Set on top of a hill on terraced gardens, it has a lovely collection of royal garments, paintings, wood carvings watches, coins fabulous royal jewellary and a gold crown given to the king by the Portuguese king, Emmanuel, via Vasco Da Gama, to establish trade. This is a comfortable trip even by auto, for the road is very good, and auto drivers throughout Kerala are courteous and responsible. A short 5 km away is the old pilgrim centre of Chottanikara- home to the bhagavathi or Amman. A typical Kerala temple, it is famous for helping those not at mental peace. A sunset cruise organised by many hotels or the KTDC is a very popular option for tourists-and certainly a must for romantics. A vision of local arts can be seen at an organised Kathakali tour, followed by a performance. After a comfortable night, one can shift base to Kochi for a luxurious stay at the Taj Malabar right at the tip of Willingdon Island, literally owning the sea. With a history of visitors ranging from the Greeks, Phoenicians, Jews, Arabs, Chinese Portuguese, Dutch and the English, Kochi became a major trading town known for its spices. Kublai Khan's traders had set up the Chinese fishing nets, today a major tourist attraction.

Mattancherry is a trip to paradise by ferry or road ( a very long route). The ferry is a cheap option but one can hire speed boats too. Mattancherry holds the old Jew Town and Fort, an island where one can happily wander for a whole day. St Francis Church here is said to be the first European church built in India, in 1503, by the Portuguese. Vasco Da Gama's remains were buried here till they were finally removed to his homeland. The Dutch Palace (1555) has 16th and 17th century murals of the Ramayana and Mahabartha. But the biggest draw here is the Jewish Synagogue(1568). Housed in a typical structure, adorned with many colourful Belgian chandeliers. The floor is wonderfully tiled in blue hand-painted Chinese tiles, no two of the same design. Jew Town has tiny streets lined with antique and curio shops selling South Indian art objects, Christian art, Kerala wood carvings, brass, mud dolls, ceramics glassware.

A special buy is the beautiful old glass bottles in various shapes, once used to store local ayurvedic potions. Old silk saris can be cheaply bought and crafty shop keepers have made many saris into dresses and skirts, popular with tourists. plenty of keepsakes for a loved one, with old gold and silver jewellery to be bought from reliable dealers here. A unique 'ox-blood' ceramic jar can be had for a mere 3 lakhs! Old books, art and travel books- if only Jew Town were closer to home! Spice packs too make for good gifts.

Return by ferry or road and have a relaxed lunch. The island's botels offer a free sunset cruise, and the Taj does it in style. A small launch with chairs on its deck gives a grandstand view of a glorious sunset, blowing away cobwebs for an hour. Sundowners can be had on board, with a valet ready at hand. Truly unforgettable. A trip to Kochi need not end here. It can go on to surrounding beauty spots, close by. A superb alternative, especially for newly weds, is to go on a cruise on the Taj Cinnamon Coast-a luxury yacht, sea worthy, with air cooled bedrooms, audio visual treats, a library and a salon, holding 15 people. It is perfect for experiencing the backwaters in luxurious privacy. A fitting finale to a dream trip.

Kerala is fine in the summer, in the monsoon, in the winter-it wears a lovely mantle round the year and beckons one onwards to more destinations within its rolling ghats and sandy coasts.